The local
taxi driver hardly new the place, but in the end we reached the Forest close to
Brikama. After a welcome in a fairy tale like hang-out our guide took us
through the Forest. He taught us a lot. How to make a rope from parts of the baobab
tree, which fruits will protect you from malaria, which fruits to eat or not to
eat (‘If it’s good for a baboon it’s good for human’), to use Mahoney wood for
the matrimonial bed, how to climb a palm tree and more.
The
marabout
After a
walk of an hour we reached a place where an old man was sitting in a hut. ‘Do
you want to consult the marabout?’ asked our guide. ‘Jessica, you know, I
believe in these things. If I go for a long tour, first I go see a marabout. So
I will be save on my travels. And you know, once a marabout told me I would
work with white men. And see, I’m working with white men for quite a while
already.’
A marabout
working here in Makasutu Cultural (theme) Forest, where probably mainly tourist
come…is that worthwhile? But what do people hear if they consult one? How does
it work? I gave it a try.
So I sat
down next to the old man. The guide sitting down as well to translate. The
marabout took my right hand in his. Then he attached a mirror to my fingers. It
took a couple of seconds before I noticed this was not for him to look at my
hand but for me to look at his face. Right away he started talking softly. ‘You
will live a long and happy life’, translated my guide. Well something everyone likes to hear. ‘You have to do charity.
You have to buy two banana’s, make a wish and give the banana’s to a man. Within
a year you will get a husband and a son. Your son will be beneficial to you.
Many people will know about him.’ ‘Wear a bracelet from mixed material to
protect you from people talking bad about you.’ The old man made spitting sounds in my hand. ‘Now put your hands like this, over your
face. Did you understand everything he
said?’ asked my guide. Well he was very clear in his direction. Will two banana’s
help? Or is it about doing good and receiving good? What goes around comes around?
It was my
friends turn, but she changed her mind. ‘No, I don’t believe in it. But still I
will get stressed and worried if I don’t do what he tells me to do.’
Charms
We
continued our walk through the Forest. ‘Really, Jessica, you have to do this. I
did not tell him you were not married yet (Our guide knew, cause as many others
in the Gambia he asked me in the first 10 minutes). I will show you how the
bracelet looks like. But don’t buy it here in the Forest. It’s less expensive
at the market. I’ve got many juju’s.’ Indeed he had. We noticed as he
showed us the three around his waist and almost took of his shirt to show as the one on his arm. ‘…and the one around my arm is made from Quran verses.
Oh let me show you this giant termite hill’, the guide continued with his daily
job. Teaching us more about Gambian nature and assuring us that the baboons
walking around would not hurt us.
I see a lot
of juju’s around me. Men, women and children. Muslims and Christians. Wearing
them for protection or to help them get well. Not all Gambians though. One of
the persons I interviewed: ‘These charms are cultural believe for protection. But
why not trust in God? Some of them think without these things they are not
protected. But who will give them protection? Something what a man has made?’
Two bananas
Well and
what did I do? I did not buy the bracelet. But – just in case – I did buy two
banana’s at Serrekunda market. It was hard to buy two, cause the lady was
selling them three at a time. A coupIe of days later i made my whish and added
the two banana’s while I gave some money to a blind man ánd an old woman
begging. The marabout just might have meant woman
instead of man. Because many Gambians
use the words man and woman, he and she in an
incorrect way. So hopefully the blind man and old woman enjoyed the bananas and
maybe…who knows...i'll have something to celebrate within a year...
No comments:
Post a Comment