Consulting traditional religion

        

 A trip to Makasutu Cultural Forest

The local taxi driver hardly new the place, but in the end we reached the Forest close to Brikama. After a welcome in a fairy tale like hang-out our guide took us through the Forest. He taught us a lot. How to make a rope from parts of the baobab tree, which fruits will protect you from malaria, which fruits to eat or not to eat (‘If it’s good for a baboon it’s good for human’), to use Mahoney wood for the matrimonial bed, how to climb a palm tree and more.

The marabout

After a walk of an hour we reached a place where an old man was sitting in a hut. ‘Do you want to consult the marabout?’ asked our guide. ‘Jessica, you know, I believe in these things. If I go for a long tour, first I go see a marabout. So I will be save on my travels. And you know, once a marabout told me I would work with white men. And see, I’m working with white men for quite a while already.’

A marabout working here in Makasutu Cultural (theme) Forest, where probably mainly tourist come…is that worthwhile? But what do people hear if they consult one? How does it work? I gave it a try.

So I sat down next to the old man. The guide sitting down as well to translate. The marabout took my right hand in his. Then he attached a mirror to my fingers. It took a couple of seconds before I noticed this was not for him to look at my hand but for me to look at his face. Right away he started talking softly. ‘You will live a long and happy life’, translated my guide. Well something everyone likes to hear. ‘You have to do charity. You have to buy two banana’s, make a wish and give the banana’s to a man. Within a year you will get a husband and a son. Your son will be beneficial to you. Many people will know about him.’ ‘Wear a bracelet from mixed material to protect you from people talking bad about you.’ The old man made spitting sounds in my hand.  ‘Now put your hands like this, over your face.  Did you understand everything he said?’ asked my guide. Well he was very clear in his direction. Will two banana’s help? Or is it about doing good and receiving good? What goes around comes around?

It was my friends turn, but she changed her mind. ‘No, I don’t believe in it. But still I will get stressed and worried if I don’t do what he tells me to do.’

Charms

We continued our walk through the Forest. ‘Really, Jessica, you have to do this. I did not tell him you were not married yet (Our guide knew, cause as many others in the Gambia he asked me in the first 10 minutes). I will show you how the bracelet looks like. But don’t buy it here in the Forest. It’s less expensive at the market. I’ve got many juju’s.’ Indeed he had. We noticed as he showed us the three around his waist and almost took of his shirt to show as the one on his arm. ‘…and the one around my arm is made from Quran verses. Oh let me show you this giant termite hill’, the guide continued with his daily job. Teaching us more about Gambian nature and assuring us that the baboons walking around would not hurt us.

I see a lot of juju’s around me. Men, women and children. Muslims and Christians. Wearing them for protection or to help them get well. Not all Gambians though. One of the persons I interviewed: ‘These charms are cultural believe for protection. But why not trust in God? Some of them think without these things they are not protected. But who will give them protection? Something what a man has made?’

Two bananas

Well and what did I do? I did not buy the bracelet. But – just in case – I did buy two banana’s at Serrekunda market. It was hard to buy two, cause the lady was selling them three at a time. A coupIe of days later i made my whish and added the two banana’s while I gave some money to a blind man ánd an old woman begging. The marabout just might have meant woman instead of man. Because many Gambians use the words man and woman, he and she in an incorrect way. So hopefully the blind man and old woman enjoyed the bananas and maybe…who knows...i'll have something to celebrate within a year... 

Celebrating Gamo at the mosque

Inviation for Gamo celebration

‘What is Gamo?’ I asked while reading a letter from Lamin Pahne and Abdoulie Camara to their Dutch friend, Yoeri. Yoeri visited Njawarra in the Gambia with his family in December. Yoeri left a good impression playing soccer with the boys at Pa Pahnes compound in Njawarra. As soon as they heard I know him they asked me about him. ‘You can write him a letter’, I suggested. And so they did. ‘When are you come here? Are you come for our Gamo?’

Lamin saying hi to his friend Yoeri

Family gathering

Well Yoeri couldn’t make it for Gamo, but I could. So on Saturday February 30 a friend and I were carried to the boat to cross the Gambia River from Banjul to Barra. A local taxi ride and a bumpy ride in the back of a 4wheel drive later we arrived in the village up north. This second time in Pa Pahnes compound it was packed. ‘Welcome, welcome. Meet my family, almost 67% of them are living in Kombo, in the cities. They are all here now to celebrate Gamo, the birth of the prophet Mohammed.’ 

Like birthdays, Christmas and other celebrations it was a meeting of relatives, far away friends, neighbors and new friends. Like people told me in the interviews everyone was welcome to celebrate together. Although mainly Muslims live in this part of the Gambia. We chatted, drank ataja and baobab juice, shared roasted corn and a bowl of couscous with meat.

Couscous in Njawarra

Waiting

Around 11 pm the program would start. We waited outside with the others on a mat – inside was too hot – and time past. Ten o’clock, eleven o’clock, twelve o’clock. I rested my head on one of the ladies laps to sleep a bit. I heard the women chat, one of the phones played some music and meanwhile my hair was plated. And then I distinguished a repetitive chant, different then the call for prayer, but with the same meaning. ‘Are you awake? Come it’s time to go to the mosque.’ Everyone fixed their clothes, the ladies put on their kala’s (head covers) and dressed me up in an African dress.

Ode to mothers

And so on a night where others passed on the light in church, I celebrated the birth of the prophet Mohammed in front of the mosque. Many woman – dressed in white or colorful dresses – on one side and many man – in smart suits – on the other side. The marabouts, imams and important men sitting in the middle. Three men were singing religious songs. Some ladies were singing along and others rhythmically snapped their fingers. Singing and swinging at the mosque! Frequently some ladies gave the singers some money. The organizer, imams and marabout spoke to the crowed. ‘We changed the directions of the chairs of the singers to face the women. Because you women are important. The mother of the prophet Mohammed (PBUH) gave birth to a strong man. All women can bring forth strong men’, spoke one of the marabouts. An ode to mothers! Another stated that men and women had different roles. ‘Women cannot become imam or pray together with men in the mosque.’ I did not hear the great marabout from Senegal speak about the life of the prophet, cause at half past four in the morning I could not keep my eyes open and could not stand any longer on my feet.

Religious singers and woman rhythmically snapping their fingers

   

At seven I woke up from people walking around. Pa Pahne greeted me a good morning. Was he already awake after organizing this event, welcoming everyone and being active at the mosque all night? ‘The program just ended I just came from the mosque. The bush-taxi is here to take you back. Many people already left.’ So we waved everyone goodbye. I think Pa Pahne was glad everyone left early. It was time for him to retreat to his room for the rest of the day!